A garment that twists or pulls usually started with a bad measurement or a pattern laid off the grain.
The idea
Take measurements over light clothing, with the person standing straight and the tape level. The tape is snug, not tight, and not so loose that the figure is larger than the body. The bust or chest, the waist, the hip, the back length, the sleeve length and the skirt length are the measurements a basic block uses. Trousers also need a crotch measurement. Say where the tape sat. "The waist" means the narrow part, not a guess at the hips. Write the figure down as you take it. A remembered number is often the wrong one.
Ease is the extra amount beyond the body measurement so the person can move and sit. A garment cut to the bare body measurement will not go on. Pattern markings have jobs. The grainline is placed parallel to the selvedge, which keeps the garment hanging straight. Notches show which edges join. A dart takes in fullness. A fold line means that edge is placed on a fold of cloth, so you do not cut a seam there. On a fabric with a nap, such as velvet or corduroy, every piece faces the same way. If the question says "lay the pattern", name the grain and the fold before you talk about cutting.
A measurement without the place it is taken is thin. Ease is not a mistake in measuring. It is planned extra room. The grainline is parallel to the selvedge. A nap fabric laid in two directions looks patched even when the size is right. Do not invent a centimetre you were not given.
Practice questions
These are practice questions in the style of the paper, with a model answer and a mark scheme. They are not a promise of what your paper will ask.
1Question 1
4 marks
(a) State two rules for taking a body measurement. (2 marks)
(b) Name two measurements needed for a simple skirt. (2 marks)
Model answer
(a) The person stands straight, and the tape is level and snug, not tight.
(b) The waist and the hip. The skirt length is also needed.
Mark scheme
One rule, such as standing straight, a level tape, or a snug tape1 mark
A second rule, different from the first1 mark
One skirt measurement, such as waist, hip or length1 mark
A second skirt measurement, different from the first1 mark
2Question 2
4 marks
Explain what ease is, and why a pattern includes it. (4 marks)
Model answer
Ease is extra room added to the body measurement. Without it the garment cannot be worn comfortably, because the body has to breathe, sit and move. Ease is planned. It is not a measuring error.
Mark scheme
Ease is extra beyond the body measurement1 mark
It is planned, not a mistake1 mark
It allows movement, sitting or comfort1 mark
A garment cut to the bare measurement will not fit for wear1 mark
3Question 3
2 marks
State what the grainline is for, and what happens if it is ignored. (2 marks)
Model answer
The grainline is laid parallel to the selvedge so the garment hangs straight. If it is ignored, the piece is off grain and the garment twists or hangs badly.
Mark scheme
It is placed parallel to the selvedge, or it keeps the hang straight1 mark
Ignoring it makes the garment twist or hang badly1 mark
Practise Clothing and Textiles with Anna
More questions on this topic are inside glearn, marked as you answer, with the reason written out. The first ones need no account.
Extra room added to the body measurement so the person can move. It is part of the pattern. A tape pulled tight is a different fault: that measurement is smaller than the body.
Why does the grainline matter?+
It is laid parallel to the selvedge. That keeps the warp threads running the way the garment should hang. A piece cut off grain twists after it is sewn. All WASSCE Clothing and Textiles past questions